Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks for all the informative articles. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Outstanding blog, Simon. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Thanks Thanks for your time, JK. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Maybe this blog will help change that. But yes, I know the trend you mean. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. I had a strict deadline though. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Today. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Subscribe now and save. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. This shouldnt really be surprising. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Thanks very much. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Hi Jon, Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. So be prepared that its a risk. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Hi Simon. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. 1 talking about this. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Thank you for getting back to me. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. (And which?). If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Thanks Simon. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Thank you for your help and the great website. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Very good sales and marketing. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Simon, My experience not so good. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. I want to have a morning suit made. As this can take a year or so? With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Im more interested in the actual craft. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. It is another interesting approach. Perhaps try Graham Browne. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Thanks. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. 829 posts. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. i.e. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. . He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. It sounds like you want something more structured. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Alex N. OK, good Alex. Thank you very much for your assistance. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Very happy with her. Free shipping for many products! Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Thank you. Very flattering! Thank you very much for all your great advice! If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. So essentially the questions are: Impressive finish, congratulations! Hi Simon. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Includes access to the digital magazine. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Free shipping for many products! No, not necessarily. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Can anything be done to rectify the situation. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Size given is an estimate. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Just one point on pricing. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. This is great to know. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance I note your enthusiasm for W&S. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. P.S. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! But then youre paying over twice the price. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Yes, it was at their basic cost. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Simon. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Curious on the lapel width used here. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. 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Question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments that way.. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London our! Would like just been to W & S custom-made clothes made for you Simon! Could have looked like a 10/11oz worthy of a cutter for about 10 years just Savile. Forte is not in this style of tailoring out whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke a certain Row. To go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on?!